MILAN (AP) — Pre-pandemic fashion delirium is back.
After several quiet seasons caused by COVID, Milan Fashion Week is back in its pre-pandemic splendor: with crowded seats, jammed streets and sidewalks full of fashion fans eager to catch a glimpse of stars and influencers.
After much pandemic talk about how to change the fashion system — that is, slow it down — few have been able to resist returning to the world as they knew it. This week’s runway shows conclude with the return of another tradition in Milan: the Green Carpet Awards to recognize progress in sustainability.
Here are some highlights from Thursday’s shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week, mainly previews of women’s clothing for the coming spring and summer.
PRADA DISCOVER RAW SILK
The latest collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explores the space between minimalism and decoration, with clean silhouettes and transparent materials.
The collection starts with form-fitting, slightly cropped bodysuits made from poplin shirts, in industrial colors such as gray and ivory. They are worn under boxy jackets and longer opera coats, and finally a loose-fitting dress in raw silk and beautiful lace details, reminiscent of a nightgown.
“The clothing is about simplicity, without unnecessary complication,” Prada said in show notes. Politically, theoretically, aesthetically we are drawn to these concepts again and again. The idea of directness.”
The silhouette was simple. Dresses wrap around the body as casually as a towel after a shower. Transparent, fabric-like overcoats gave a feeling of lightness. Naive flowers in appliqué adorn handbags and jackets and sometimes hold a tail of fabric in place.
Even with the feminine touches, androgyny underlined the collection, especially in the Prada uniform looks: jumpsuits, slim trousers and jackets. Shoes were stubby Mary Janes or loafers. Bags of the season included the Prada inverted triangle handbag and large shoppers in contrasting pink or lime green.
More than any other collection, this one is filled with different views. There is a mirror of cinema in the collection, of witnessing fragments of a larger whole”, according to Simons.
MAX MARA IS LOST IN THOUGHTS
The Max Mara silhouette for next season evokes feminine modernity, with voluminous sailor trousers and skirts that transition from a snug at the hip to a cascade of swishing motion. The volumes – also visible in boxy jackets and oversized coats – are balanced by shoulderless halters and crop tops.
Creative director Ian Griffiths said he had cues from 1930s female intellectuals on the French Riviera, citing Renee Perle, the muse and lover of photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue, and architect Eileen Gray. There’s a purposeful androgyny to the collection, with David Bowie in 80s loose trousers popping up on Griffith’s mood board.
They are looks that invite contemplation, while offering unrestrained movement to a woman pursuing intellectual pursuits.
Max Mara presented a neutral color for the coming season, in raw linen that can range from gray to khaki, which was combined with calming, sun-kissed shades of yellow, green and blue, creating a harmonious trio in a wide overcoat over a swimsuit combination, finished with a knitted bathing cap.
Bags are big enough for a weekend trip. Shoes are platform sandals. And hats have oversized brims.